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80-10-10 Piggyback Loan vs PMI Calculator

If you read PMI Explained, you know an 80-10-10 piggyback loan is a real way to skip PMI without a full 20% down payment, and that it isn’t automatically the cheaper choice. The second loan carries its own rate, and whether that ends up costing you more or less than PMI depends on numbers that are genuinely hard to eyeball: your credit-based PMI rate, the second loan’s rate and term, and how long you’re actually planning to keep the house before selling or refinancing.

Short version: Enter your loan numbers and how long you plan to stay, and this shows which path costs less in total interest and PMI, plus exactly when the two paths would cross over if your inputs change.

W&W

Your numbers

Used for both the single loan and the 80% first loan in the piggyback
Auto-filled by credit tier, or enter your actual quote
Covers the gap between your down payment and the 80% first loan (currently 10% of home price)
Before selling or refinancing

Verdict at your stay horizon
Calculating…

Cumulative interest + PMI paid over time

PMI path (single loan) Piggyback path (80-10-10)
Your numbers stay saved in this browser until you clear them. Nothing is sent anywhere. This compares pre-tax borrowing cost only, both the new 2026 PMI tax deduction and second-loan interest deductibility depend on your income and whether you itemize, so your actual after-tax numbers could shift slightly in either direction. See PMI Explained for the full breakdown of PMI cancellation rules and the tax deduction’s income limits.

Here's what matters most for reading your results honestly. PMI is temporary, it cancels automatically once your loan balance hits 78% of the home's original value, but you keep paying interest on the extra principal it let you borrow for the entire loan term. The piggyback's second loan carries a higher rate, but only for its own term, once it's paid off, that extra cost disappears completely. Which one wins depends on how those two clocks line up against how long you're actually staying. Run your own numbers below, not the defaults, your credit tier and the actual second-loan quote you can get both move this more than people expect.

One thing to understand before you trust the verdict number: it's not only comparing your monthly payment, it's comparing what that payment actually buys you. The piggyback path often costs a bit more per month, but a bigger share of that extra money goes toward equity - paying down principal instead of interest, since the second loan typically pays off faster (15 years is a common term, versus 30 for a standard mortgage), and principal paid is equity you keep, not money that's gone. So the tool only counts interest and PMI as "cost," the parts that are genuinely gone for good, and treats principal as a wash since it builds equity no matter which loan it went through. A path that costs more cash out of pocket each month can still come out ahead once that extra equity gets counted. The results include an "extra cash paid" and "extra equity built" row for exactly this reason, so you can check the reconciliation yourself instead of taking the verdict on faith.

One thing this tool intentionally doesn't try to model: the new 2026 PMI tax deduction and the tax treatment of the second loan's interest. Both depend on your income and whether you itemize, covered in full in PMI Explained, and trying to simulate someone's specific tax situation inside a mortgage calculator adds complexity without adding real accuracy. This compares pre-tax cost only, your actual after-tax numbers could shift slightly in either direction.

Frequently Asked Questions

With typical rate spreads and a 15-year second loan, the piggyback often comes out ahead because PMI keeps adding interest on the extra principal it let you borrow for the entire loan term, not just while PMI itself is charging you. The second loan's higher rate only applies for its own shorter term. Stretch the second loan's term out to match the first mortgage, or raise its rate significantly, and PMI can win instead, try it in the calculator.

Cumulative interest paid plus cumulative PMI paid, for each path. Principal payments aren't counted as a cost since that money builds your own equity regardless of which loan structure it went through.

Because a higher monthly payment doesn't automatically mean a higher cost. If more of that extra money is going toward principal, which builds your equity, rather than interest or PMI, which don't, the path with the bigger monthly payment can still come out ahead overall. The results include an "extra cash paid" and "extra equity built" row specifically so you can see that trade-off in your own numbers instead of just trusting the verdict.

No, intentionally. That deduction depends on your income, whether you itemize, and phases out entirely above certain income limits, covered in PMI Explained. This tool compares pre-tax cost only, since simulating your specific tax situation inside a mortgage calculator adds complexity without real accuracy.

Use an actual quote if you have one. If you're just exploring, a common starting estimate is 1 to 2.5 percentage points above your first mortgage rate, but this varies by lender and whether the second loan is a fixed-rate loan or a HELOC.

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